DAYS 5 & 6: Traveling like Harry Potter, Florentine Steak & Michelangelo's masterpiece

Quote of the days: “They could’ve just walked this sucker out to the table.” JM upon receiving his T-bone Florentine steak cooked rare.

Webby bidded us arrivederici too.

VM: While Tuesday was mostly a travel day, it was fun. We waved goodbye to our sweet hostess, the Contessa, and her beloved Webby around 10am, departing by water taxi from our lovely Venice apartment. As our train wasn’t scheduled until 12:55pm, we had a late breakfast and then hung out at the train station, watching the coming and goings of the people and best of all, the trains.

Precisely on time, we boarded our Italo bullet train for Firenze (Florence). Approximately $40 / person for a private compartment a la Harry Potter was a wonderful value. Just about $20 more total than traveling coach, it was incredibly fun to have our own “box” on the train complete with complimentary beverages & snacks including wine. The two hours passed super quickly on the super fast train.

We all were excited to ride the bullet train.

A rare pose from our cutie patootie.

Harry Potter wishes he had vino...

Upon arriving here, we made our way to the apartment. The cute son of our apartment’s owner met us and showed us around. HM was enchanted with her first Florentine boy. He was very nice and pointed out all the sights near our apartment plus gave us restaurant recommendations.

YES! He ate it all.

Because we hadn’t eaten since 10am, and it was now close to 5pm, we decided to have an early supper at one of the spots Emanuele recommended, Il Barroccio. And it did not disappoint. JM took the plunge to try the famous Florentine steak and declared it delicious although it truly could have still been mooing. Luckily, that’s just the way he likes it.

After a quick walk to see the famous Ponte Vecchio and to finish our meal with gelato, we decided to call it an early night. I’m fighting off a cold due to the climate changes and was in bed by 9pm and everyone else followed quickly behind.

We are fun at heart (shout out to our Wild
Adventures friends!)

The famed Ponte Vecchio. The bridge used to house all types
of merchants -- butchers, fishmongers, etc. However, the Medicis had a PRIVATE covered bridge
built above it so they could walk from Pitti Palace to the government hub, which is now the Uffizi Gallery.  Net, net, they (nor their friends) weren't going to smell stinky food on their walks back and forth, so the stores below began to sell only gold. And today that's still what is sold on the bridge - store after store selling gold.
Reminded both JM and VM of similar markets in Saudi Arabia.

Our breakfast view.

Today, we were off to explore Firenze! We started our day enjoying yummy croissants from our bakery down the street on our rooftop terrace overlooking the Duomo (Florence’s main cathedral & probably most photographed landmark beside the Ponte Vecchio bridge and the statue of David).

Cristiana was a great guide.

Speaking of David, he was the first stop on our private “highlights” tour of Florence which we had prearranged. Our awesome guide, Cristiana, met us promptly at 9am and we headed straight to the Accademia to check out David. When we reached the museum and saw the 3-hour line snaked around the building, we were really happy we had booked ahead. Our guide whisked us in, and gave us a fascinating tour of not only the David but some of the museum’s other works.

ALL of us (even EM who was again appalled at the nakedness of David) were amazed by this masterpiece. It stands 14 feet tall and is simply gigantic. In addition, Michelangelo sculpted it from ONE piece of marble. The attention to every detail – the veins, the muscles and yes, even the butt! -- was phenomenal and the fact that Michelangelo was 29 when he finished it even

more so. Basically, the David put Michelangelo on the map.

David's out of proportion hands and feet are supposed to signify
how he outsmarted Goliath with just his mind and strength. Either that or as JM says, 
"Michelangelo really didn't want to start over and figured the story sounded good."

His derriere is pretty spectacular too.

Italians call this "in finito" as it's not finished
but apparently Michelangelo begged to differ.
If you look right above the elbow you can just
make out the face starting to form.

Equally fascinating were the various “unfinished” statues housed at the museum commissioned by the standing Pope at the time. He wanted Michelangelo to make 42 statues for his funeral. I guess old Mike wasn’t feeling it, cause he never quite finished them, he only made ten, but they were really neat to see, because it gives you some insight to how he worked. Apparently, he said the “soul of the stone” would reveal itself to him. I guess he thought the soul was there and moved on.

Cristiana then led us to see many major sites around town, including an upclose view of the Duomo which is being cleaned in honor of the Pope's visit coming this November.  And yes, we were walking all the way. HM particularly enjoyed this tour as she has a love of history and its stories. Even EM hung in there.

The entire Duomo is covered in marble.

The attention to detail is mind-boggling. Especially when you
realize it was made centuries ago.

After 3 hours of walking, we felt we had earned our lunch. Upon the recommendation of my girlfriend (shout out to Claudia!) we hit Il Latini, a typical trattoria. It was yummy and we had a great waiter who enjoyed practicing his Spanish with me.

After a long lunch, we decided to hit the leather market. After much haggling and inspecting to assure we were getting Italian leather and not knock-offs, JM, HM and EM left the market with a new briefcase and backpacks, respectively. You never quite know if you got a good deal or not, but as I told the family, if you love it, that’s all that matters.

After a break at our apartment, we trekked out once again to watch the sunset from across the river. Little did we know that we were going to Florence’s version of Key West’s Mallory Square's Sunset Celebration except instead of drinking beer, they drink wine here! The crowd was lively and the view was stunning.  Well worth the trip up the hill.

The view from above was well worth the trip up.

Firenze sunset.

Bella!

Bella too!

JM and his girls - Florence edition.

On our way back down at around 8pm, we had a chance encounter with a friendly U.S. college boy and his mom. Turned out he was a Texas Christian University junior from San Diego studying abroad (shout out to our TCU neighbors – the Hopfingers!). We asked for a good pizza place and he was more than happy to show us a spot that locals AND university students love – Gusta Pizza. 

It was real Italian pizza made with fresh tomatoes and buffalo mozzarella in a wood-fired oven. And of course, the reason college students love it, fairly economical compared to other Florentine eateries. The small cafe was jam-packed, so we joined many others on the steps of a nearby church to enjoy our supper. EM declared it the best pizza she had ever had as did HM (although I think she might’ve been influenced by the cute boy who recommended it).

Now that's a real pizza maker!

And that's apizza!

And a few others enjoyed them too.  Photo creds: EM.

After one last stop for gelato (I don’t know where they put it!), we walked home again.

The gelato is really incredible and the McCartys can't resist it.

All in all, it was a beautiful day in Firenze. My only regret is not having another day and disappointing my friend Ryan by not making it to Zsa Zsa Trattoria. Yet another reason to come back!

Tomorrow we are off to Assisi and then Rome.  

Random pic of the day - even the markets are charming in Florence.